Microneedling has been around for decades but it’s only in the last few years that it’s moved into mainstream awareness. With the rising visibility comes a lot of noise and it can be difficult to extract the truth, especially with at home devices borrowing the language of clinical treatments but without the same results. Hopefully this article will help to give you a better picture.
The clinical term is collagen induction therapy, which tells you a bit more than the marketing name does. The treatment works by creating controlled micro-injuries into the skin using fine needles. These injuries (which are tiny, precise and carefully calibrated) trigger the body’s natural wound-healing response. That response generally takes three phases: the initial inflammatory phase, followed by a secondary stage in which the body produces new collagen and elastin to repair the sites, then finally a remodelling phase in which those new fibres mature and integrate into the surrounding tissue.
The result over time is skin that’s structurally different with more collagen and improved elasticity, together with refined texture and reduced scarring. The key thing here to remember is this takes time. The collagen-building process takes weeks, if not months, and the improvements continue to develop long after the session.
While there are many applications for microneedling, the strongest evidence tends to be around acne scarring. Multiple randomised controlled trials have confirmed improvement in both atrophic and rolling acne scars with a course of microneedling treatment. For anyone who is carrying the long-term effects of acne, this is one of the more evidence-backed options available.
Skin texture and enlarged pores are also well-documented applications with consistent results reported across clinical studies. Fine lines and mild laxity also tend to respond well, though the outcomes are more variable depending on the individual and the concern.
Hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone are also frequently treated with microneedling, often in combination with topical serums applied through the micro-channels created during treatment. Outcomes here depend largely on skin type, the cause of the pigmentation and whether any underlying causes have been addressed.
A proper clinical microneedling session starts with a topical anaesthetic applied around 30-45 minutes before treatment, to make sure you’re comfortable throughout. The treatment itself then takes around 20-30 minutes depending on the size of the area being treated. Most people describe the sensation as a mild pressure with some warmth, rather than anything particularly uncomfortable or painful, though some areas like the forehead and hairline can be a bit more sensitive.
Immediately afterwards, the skin will appear flushed, similar to mild sunburn. This typically resolves within 24-72 hours. During this period, your skin may feel tight and dry and direct sun exposure should be avoided. Active skincare ingredients like retinoids, acids and vitamin C should be paused for at least 48 hours to allow the skin barrier to calm and heal. Your clinician will give you a specific protocol to follow based on what you’re already using at home.
Results from this first session should be visible from around 4-6 weeks as the collagen-building process gets underway. The more significant improvements can be expected to accumulate across a full course of treatment.
The market for at-home microneedling kits has grown substantially over the last few years and it’s important to remember that they are not the same thing. The microneedles in clinical devices operate at a much greater depth, which means that while home kits may offer a mild exfoliating effect, they can’t stimulate the same level of new collagen.
Then there’s the safety aspect to contend with. Clinical microneedling uses medical-grade devices in a controlled environment with a trained clinician. If home devices are not sterilised properly, they carry a real risk of introducing bacteria into compromised skin.
Not everyone is a suitable candidate for microneedling, and this can change at any time. Active acne, rosacea flares, skin conditions and even some prescribed medications like blood-thinners all present contraindications that require a thorough assessment by a clinician. The skin also needs to assessed for type, tone and sensitivity to determine the appropriate needle depth and course of action, which isn’t something that can be done with an amateur at-home kit.
This is why the starting point at YOR Skin is always a full skin analysis before we move onto any recommended course of treatments. If you’d like to understand whether microneedling is the right option for your skin, we’d love for you to consider booking a consultation with one of our experienced clinicians.
